Sunday, May 22, 2011

Catching Up 2

Sang's village turned out to be a metaphor for all of China - a showcase for all the progress its people have made, but a stark testament to how far China still has to go before we can truly call it a developed nation. Sang proudly showed me the progress his village had made. The central road of the village of 3000 people now had pavement and streetlights, most of the buildings were "western" instead of traditional Chinese and many had more than one floor. For Sang, this was an indication of the great improvements Chinese people have had since the times of Chairman Mao.

Though Mao himself is still widely revered in China as a man who founded the modern Chinese state, most Chinese acknowledge that his later economic and cultural policies did a lot of harm to Chinese people. This does not diminish their respect for him, however. They are inclined to forgive him for his mistakes. This is compounded by the fact that the official Chinese government narrative about Mao does not allow a completely clear or accurate picture of his life. They don't tell outright lies about him, as many people in the older generations of China remember his policies all too clearly, but neither do they articulate them particularly well to educate the younger generations. As a result, people like Sang absorb a conflicting message to "think of him as a great man, despite all his mistakes".

Despite the improvements that Sang pointed out to me, this was my first true instance of culture shock.

Catching Up 1

Just prior to Spring Festival in January, I went with Sang and his friend to his tiny home village of Gu Fo Si (古佛寺) which is about a 10- minute drive outside Chang Ge, a town of about 100000 people an hour's drive southeast of Zhengzhou. The drive really should be an hour, but it actually takes about two hours because of terrible driving conditions, insane drivers in China and the fact that said bad driving conditions and insane drivers means that all vehicles drive extremely slowly to avoid massive fireballs of death occurring at regular intervals. As it is, more than 100000 people die in car accidents in China annually. I'd rather have a slow trip than add my name to the statistics.

Chang Ge is a well-known town in China as it was the chosen capital city of the famous Cao Cao, a major figure in Chinese history and ruler of the northern kingdom of Wei in the warring states period depicted in the famous novel "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms", which is one of China's four great novels. While many westerners would condemn Cao Cao for his cruelty, in China he is widely admired for his ambition. Cao Cao is particularly beloved here in Henan, where he spent a large part of his life.